Sewing

MW’14: The Devil in Disguise

Oh, Vogue 1387A, you’re the Devil in disguise…oh yes you are.

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But how could that be?  See how sweet and pleasing you are to the eye.  I enjoy your look; you are Summery, comfortable and highly wearable.

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But your underarm insets made me want to scream.  They made me want to wad you up and light you on fire.

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How could something so innocuous looking feed on one’s sanity so voraciously?

OK, maybe it wasn’t that bad.  But I did get pretty pissy as I do sometimes when my sewing is frustrating me.  Poor Mr. 5.

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(Anywho, back to first person.)

I made this innocent monstrosity out of a lovely cotton lawn (or voile?  I can never seem to distinguish between them well) I bought in Paris on our honeymoon.  I cut a 14 for my muslin, which was a bit smaller than Vogue’s chart indicates I should wear and it was huge.  So, I went down to a 12.  It seems like it fits alright in the photos, but it does strain a bit over the bust, so I would add a 1″ total FBA if I had it to do over again. The only alteration I did make was a 1/2″ swayback, which could’ve stood to have been a 3/4″ to 1″ swayback adjustment.

I had a hell of a time installing those damn little triangles of doom (er…underarm insets) on this blouse.  I sewed and ripped both of them out no less than THREE times and spent a total of 2-3 hours on the armscye as a whole.  It didn’t help that the armband that’s sewn in was a bit too long for the arm opening, too.

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The drudgery of this was compounded by the fact that I could already tell the blouse was going to be a bit tight in the bust and this was my favorite piece of honeymoon fabric.  This happened because I hadn’t put the insets into my muslin, which was a big mistake.  I can’t say why I thought they wouldn’t be necessary for fitting…

I used some Martha Pullen silk/cotton Elegance lining for the yoke facing because there was a bit of print show through with the lawn.  I thought about doing this for the front overlap facing as well, but decided not to; self fabric facing is best in a situation where the facing could potentially flop out.  I also did french seams where I could.

Cue gratuitous innards photos!

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The good news is I really love this top; I think I love it as much as it frustrated me.  I’m not sure I would’ve sewn it if I had known what I know now, but I’m glad I did.

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The second bit of good news is that it’s July 31 and this is my 5th and final Mini Wardrobe 2014 piece.  I’M DONE!  :D

14 thoughts on “MW’14: The Devil in Disguise”

  1. I swear those insets are the wrong size… and yah, I think I spent about as much time on the arm area as you did! But then, it turns out beautifully and you forgive and forget :) I think your fabric was a great match for this pattern. Looks beautiful!

    1. Yes! They are totally messed up; I forgot to mention that in my post. The notches definitely did not correspond at all. I just kind of sewed them in where it seemed like they wanted to be.

      Just took a peek at yours; so pretty, and great drape on that fabric.

  2. Gorgeous!!!! I’ve had my eye on this pattern for awhile. Now, having read about your experience, I’m even more scared to try it, but more determined to do it! Yours turned out beautifully.

    1. Thank you very much; so sweet of you to say.

      Excited to hear about your renewed determination to give this puppy a try and looking forward to seeing your blouse! Please come back and share a link when you’re done. :)

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