Sewing

The Patriot Dress

You saw us all together on Monday in our very patriotic 4th of July get-ups, (if not, lookie here!) but now it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty and talk about each cheeseball garment.

First up, my dress!  Mr. 5 said something about Wonder Woman when he saw it on me for the first time…

Jalie 3132 dress

Amazingly for me, I finished ALL THREE garments on Saturday, TWO DAYS before they were to be worn.  I felt like a rockstar by beating my procrastination into submission (sort of; I mean, 2 days is still cutting it a bit close, but better than the usual!).

Jalie 3132 dress

For my dress I used Jalie 3132, which is a top or tunic with optional nursing capability.  Other features to choose from include a hood with drawstring or V-neck, kangaroo pocket and short or long sleeves.

Jalie 3132 dress
Peek-a-boob!

As you can see, I chose the nursing V-neck with short sleeves.  If you remember, I’d planned on making the hooded version, but came to my senses (a hood in JULY?  Nah…) which turned out to be especially good since I almost ran out of fabric!  More on that Friday when I share Mr. 5’s henley.

Jalie 3132 dress

This is actually my second time sewing up this pattern.  The first I whipped up shortly after Cheeks was born, and I was a bit bigger then so it doesn’t fit quite right anymore.  Lately I’ve been using it as a cover up when we take him to swim lessons.

Jalie 3132 Jalie 3132

This first dress got a lot of wear even though Mr. 5 teased me about being a hippie and the fabric only has 2-way stretch (the pattern calls for a 4-way stretch knit, which I ignored to my detriment), which never a good choice for nursing wear that gets tugged all over creation.

Jalie 3132 dress

I did learn a few valuable things from this first dress, though.

I can usually get away with just cutting a wider width in knit patterns (including Jalie) to accommodate my boobs, in lieu of a full bust adjustment.  However, that doesn’t work so well when there’s a separate panel involved and no vertical stretch to the fabric.  The panel on the tie dyed dress did not hit at my waist like Jalie intended.  So for this rendition, I decided to do a proper no-dart-FBA and also added 1″ of length on top of that for good measure.

Jalie 3132

Seeing the finished product, I feel like I went a bit overboard as the panel now hits a bit below my natural waist (ahem “waist,” AKA whatever that part in the middle of me is called post-baby) and I think just 1/2″ of length instead of 1″ added would have been perfect.  Plus, this fabric DOES have the pattern required 4-way stretch, (AKA it stretches vertically) which also makes a difference.  Regardless, too much length is better than not enough:  there’s nothing klassier than when a dress bodice cuts you mid-bust.

Jalie 3132 dress

As for size in general, the hips/bust are pretty perfect, but the midsection is not as flattering as it could be.  However, I’m OK with that, since figure hugging ain’t what it used to be (see self deprecating comment on waist above).

Jalie 3132 dress

The other thing I learned from dress #1 was how much length was needed to turn the tunic into a dress.  I only added 4″ the first time, which felt a bit short at times.  This time I added 6″ (but ended up turning the hem so it followed a stripe, so it ended up effectively being 5 1/2″) and love the length.  All I did to lengthen it was follow the direction of the tunic line the desired amount.  Easy peasy!

Jalie 3132 dress

The only thing I am not proud of is the armsyce/bust fit.  It seems like it gapes and pulls at the same time.  I know this is a common T shirt problem, but I feel like there is something I could do to make it better.  Any suggestions?

Jalie 3132 dress

As mentioned in my last post, I used the infamous Girl Charlee star and stripe cotton/spandex jersey for all of our garments.  Both listings say the fabrics are 10 oz, but I felt that the star fabric was thinner.  That could have to do with the differing printing processes, though (the stripes definitely have a different feel than the rest of the fabric).

For my purposes, the fabric worked great.  The only bummer was how see through the white was.  We went out for waffles for breakfast on the 4th and Mr. 5 didn’t tell me he could see the print of my underwear through my dress until we were on our way out the door.  We’ll just say I briefly thought about changing them but then had a case of the fuck-its.  Sorry to anyone at Yola’s who happened to see my floral underoos.

Jalie 3132 dress

Overall, I’m happy with how my dress turned out and am glad to continue honing the fit of this pattern.  As Cheeks’ first birthday approaches, I’m ramping down on pumping at work, but plan to still nurse him while we are together.  So, I could see perhaps one more of these dresses in my future.  :)

Jalie 3132 dress

* * * * *

Next up:  Mr. 5’s henley!

Jalie 3132 dress

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7 thoughts on “The Patriot Dress”

  1. I love these outfits! You are Wonder Woman-esque! As for the bust gaping and pulling at the same time…you need a dart. I know, I know, a dart in a knit?? A couple of years ago I met Sarah Veblen who wrote this awesome book: The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting and she told me that I needed a dart, yes, even in a knit. So if I definitely need a dart, you definitely do too :)

    1. Ugh, I know you’re right. But yuck to darts in T-shirt-like-clothing. Le sigh.

      Will definitely check out that book, though, thank you!

      ETA: I own this book! Ha. Mr. 5 got it for me for Christmas (I believe) one year! I should look through it again…

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