Sewing

1st Challenge: Scout Tee by Grainline Studio

I’ve been working my buns off on this lovely top since last Thursday, and it’s finally time to share:  here’s my interpretation of the Grainline Studios Scout Tee!:

 Grainline Studio Scout Tee

Here’s a link to the nitty gritty of the challengeCliff notes:  make the Scout, but make it special.  Embellish it, make it your own.

Grainline Studio Scout Tee

I may have ended up going a little overboard “making it special,” (it may be a little over-designed) but I was careful to retain the essence of the Scout T:  A woven T shirt that is fairly fitted at the shoulders and a bit roomier down below.

 Grainline Studio Scout Tee

I’m not sure how I feel about what I ended up with.

 Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

I feel that I have been greatly influenced by what I’ve been watching while sewing…Big Love (yeah for old HBO on Amazon Prime!).  I feel like there must be a few women on The Compound who would enjoy wearing this shirt.  It also makes me think “Little House on the Prairie,” but that’s mostly from the yoke and sleeves.

Untitled
I think Nicki might like it.

Side note:  polygamy is fascinating, but I ain’t the sharing type.  That is, except for TMI; I’m always sharing that.

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

So, what did I change about the pattern?

image
So many ideas…

imageDa winner

As is, this shirt was not so flattering and hung off of me.  A friend told me it looked like a maternity shirt.  Not so cool.  Woven fabric + no darts + large bust = bad time.

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I muslined a size 8 first but then decided it looked (and felt) a bit big and decided to try a 6, which is what I ended up sticking with.  For the sake of function and flattery, I added a 3/4″ FBA, which added a small dart, and took in the waist 3″ on the side.

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

Scout waist intake
The most obvious design change is the color blocking, following closely by the tulip (petal; whatever you want to call them) sleeves.  The color blocking was strategic, as it allowed me to absorb the dart into the upper side panels.  Yay style lines!

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

I also added a center back seam to allow for a small amount of additional waist shaping (took out another 3/4-1″ total), since the pattern as is created a weird convex shape to my back (see muslin pic above) that Mr. 5 said made it look like a paper bag.  Nice.

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

I know if I had done this “right” I would have had two seams (well, darts) below the shoulder blades, but I wanted to keep things as simple as possible fitting wise, since it is a T-shirt.  I added a curved to the trim at the bottom for a little flare.

Grainline Studios Scout Tee

And here’s how I drafted the tulip sleeve, with the help of my handy dandy apparel design patternmaking textbook:

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

What fabrics did I use?

Uh, what fabrics didn’t I use?  I ended up making this 4 piece pattern into a 10 piece pattern, and then ended up cutting out a total of 23 pieces from 4 different fabrics for a total of 2 1/4 yards.  That’s one high maintenance T shirt, folks.

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I used a pink floral cotton crinkle gauze, a cream cotton voile with (more) flowers, and a pink cotton eyelet.  After choosing all of these, I decided that all of the gauze pieces needed two layers and the voile and front upper eyelet pieces needed to be lined with Martha Pullen Elegance (silk/cotton).

So, most of this T shirt is lined in some manner.  The only parts that aren’t are the back eyelet sections (I thought I’d be a little saucy) and the eyelet band (because, meh, no one cares if they see a peek of that skin).

And, once everything was lined I decided to continue with the niceties.  I bound all of the raw edges with hug snug bias binding:

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

I’m craaaaazy!  Kind of like Dave, the taco loving guy on my favorite time sucking, addictive mindless video game.

I don’t know exactly how many hours this top took me to make, but 10-12 is probably a good guesstimate.  Like I said, I’m the mayor of T-shirt Crazytown.

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

If you like what you see, please vote for me on Fabric Mart’s blog!  Voting is today and tomorrow only (September 10th and 11th), and counts for 50% of each person’s total score, so you’ll want to head on over sooner than later.  :)  And if ya do, thank you very much!

Grainline Studios - Scout Tee

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20 thoughts on “1st Challenge: Scout Tee by Grainline Studio”

  1. I already emailed you gushing so… :) I love it. LOVE it. You have to teach me the tulip sleeve because I need a tulip sleeve!!!!

    Those curved seams are beautiful <3

  2. Love it. I have a question though. I get how you did the FBA but did you move the dart into the seams of the insert or just draw out the insert and didn’t sew the dart. I realize you had to add seam allowances on the insert and garment body piece

    1. Hey Terry! Thanks. :) I actually did neither, but you’re close with the second guess. I purposely drew the style lines so they went through the bust point, so when I traced off the pattern piece I traced the armscye area down to the point and top leg of the dart, then rotated the pattern piece at the bust point so the line matched up with the bottom of the dart, and then traced in the bottom area of the insert.

      Make sense? Or clear as mud? I’d be happy to draw you a picture. :)

  3. I am a huge fan of hotchpotch tops. I own a few from RTW companies, so yeah, I am feeling the love for your top.

    I lol-ed at the Niki pic from “Big Love.” Her style was very sister wife, for sure. ;)

    Hard work, lady, wear your top with pride…it looks great on you, especially the colors!

  4. It was hard to make that one flattering. The other contestants seemed to land somewhere around where you did with this. Good job with what you had. ;) I did really like the gray one that someone else made, with the lace going down the middle of the back, but I still voted for yours. ;-P

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