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A Wedding Dress: Butterick 5882

OK, well, it’s not for my wedding…it’s the dress I made to wear to my dear friend C’s wedding!  Had you going there for a sec, didn’t I?

Butterick 5882

The wondrous Butterick 5882, AKA Gertie done good again.

Sewing this dress wasn’t too difficult.  Due to time constraints, I actually got the majority of it done in only two days.  I was fitting the top on the Friday before the wedding (which was on a Friday, so a week before the wedding and 6 days before we were starting our drive), and had a case of the f*ck its, during which I declared to Mr. 5 that I would not be making this dress…I would have to find something else.  I can be good at psyching myself out like that.

Butterick 5882

The next morning, I awoke with renewed resolve and ended up getting the dress nearly finished by Sunday night.  Sadly, though, I overfit the bodice and the damn thing was just way too tight.  So easy to do when you have all of those layers involved:  shell fabric, lining, and boning (which I did put into my muslin, so that was not the culprit alone!).  Speaking of fabric, I used a lovely Maggy London rayon/acetate damask from Fabric Mart for the majority of the dress, and a mystery (poly?) satin for the teal contrasting bits.

Butterick 5882

This mistake led to another 3 or so hours of work as I let out the side seams of the bodice, which required ripping out a bunch of hand stitching, the bodice side seams, much of the waist, the boning over the seam, as well as the top parts of the skirt.  I was not a happy camper.  Also, I later noticed that I had bled on the lining of the dress without realizing it.  That’s some focus right there.  I thought about sharing a photo, but methinks you guys know what a sewing-sized blood stain looks like.

Butterick 5882

After all of that, it was still a smidge tight.  Maybe more than a little…Mr. 5 helped me by taking these photos today and in one of them was a heaping helping of back fat (which can sort of be seen in the photo above).  At least it wasn’t back cleavage, right?  I’ll spare you that photo and show you this instead:

Butterick 5882

I cut a straight 14 in this, and really should’ve included at least a 1/2″ or a full 1″ FBA.  Luckily, my most supportive bra (obtained last November) kept things in place instead of smooshing them, and the straps corresponded with the straps of the dress.

If I had to choose, the shelf bust feature was probably the most trying part, and even that was pretty self explanatory.  I did managed to ignore all of the arrows and directions and stitched the pleats going in the wrong direction (up instead of down), but I think it still worked out pretty well.  I also wanted to tie the shelf bust/strap color elsewhere in the dress, so I drafted my own pleated sash.

Butterick 5882

That being said, I’m not sure what I think about the strap that holds up the dress.  It’s entirely cut on the bias, so I am pretty certain it will stretch with time.  I thought about using a bias strip just around the bust and then cutting some fabric on the grain for the rest of the strap, but time constraints got in the way.  Plus, I wasn’t sure how I felt about breaking up the continuous line of the strap.  Also, I ended up wearing the strap facing outward (slipstitched), toward the sides, rather than in, like the pattern indicated.

A half-ass innards photo for y’all:

Butterick 5882

And lastly, the wonderful beauty of a full, twirly, whirly skirt:

Butterick 5882

Butterick 5882

And…because I’m a freak, here’s a random animated gif of a couple of photos taken at the wedding, which was quite the breezy day!:

http://picasion.com/i/1TvA9/

More to come soon on the nuptials of C and S, and our mini vacation to North Carolina and back!

About sometimessewist

Howdy! I’m Jess, a 30-something midwesterner who loves ice cream, Martinis, and makin’ things. When I’m not sewing, knitting, or learning some new craft, I’m reading, spending time with my guy, or plotting my next project.

36 responses »

  1. This pattern is on my wishlist, but it looks intimidated. I still want to try it though as it looks gorgeous everywhere I’d seen it sewn! Love your version of it!

    Reply
  2. wow! this is amazig! love the contrast and it looks perfect. no idea that u had such troubles!

    Reply
  3. At the risk of sounding weird, I must make a comment. I am a full busted gal, and notice we have this in common. I have admired ths pattern and I think you justt hit a home run. I appreciate the work it takes to get the boudice right for the girls. Alas, i am too old for it. You look great, it’s very flattering. I love your fabric combo too. Great job!

    Reply
    • I feel like I talk about “the girls” a lot, as they are a consistent fitting challenge, so I don’t think there’s anything weird about you mentioning that we are similarly full-busted. Though, I consider myself a little weird in general, so maybe two weirds makes a normal? Thanks for the kind compliments. :)

      Reply
  4. Ooh so pretty! I love the pleated sash belt you made as well. The teal really enhances the color of the dress.

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  5. That fabric really makes the dress! I’ve looked at this pattern before but been a bit worried about how difficult it would be.

    Reply
    • The moment I saw it, I knew I needed to buy it to make this dress. Though, I could probably say that about a lot of the fabric I buy, minus the knowing what I want to make with it part.

      The dress has a fair number of parts, but I wouldn’t say it was an overly difficult make. If the design floats your boat, you should give it a try!

      Reply
  6. Absolutely beautiful! :-)

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  7. This is lovely in every way, suits you perfectly.

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  8. This turned out beautifully! I think the pleats going up actually is much more flattering than the original. You’ve inspired me to make one myself!

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    • Awesome! Looking forward to seeing it. Took a peek at your blog, and love your pattern test of the avocado hoodie. The part of me that now wants to buy that pattern is battling the part that hates taping PDF patterns together…

      Reply
  9. I just bought the same damask! Your dress is awesome. (found your blog via Pattern Review and I’m loving it)

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    • Thanks for stopping by! I <3 pattern review…it's just so great to get fellow sewists' views on all of the different patterns out there. Don'tcha just love the damask? I love the design of it, but I also love how it's kind of firm but not so bulky at the same time.

      Reply
      • I couldn’t have wished for this fabric. i honestly didn’t know what it was going to actually be like but i had to get it. i’m thinking of making a jacket.

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  10. Wow this is incredible! The contrast bodice detail makes the dress, yours looks perfect!

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  11. Great job! That pleated sash is perfect for the dress, I just assumed it was included in the pattern – way to one-up Gertie!

    Reply
  12. I also think the pleating going up is way more cool!
    Tina in San Diego
    woes of tailoring: my blog, http://www.tina-rathbone.blogspot.com

    Reply
  13. danvillegirl

    Wow! I really like your dress. You did a great job! Love the neckline!

    Reply
  14. Pingback: Asheville and Beyond | the Sometimes Sewist

  15. What a lovely dress! Looks much more interesting than the original pattern.. I love the belt you made – makes it more “complete”.. And the fabric combination is just perfect!

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  16. Want to make this dress for my daughter, but curious how would you have made a FBA?

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  17. Love your fabric choices!

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  18. This is the only, and I mean ONLY, version of this dress other than one of the two on the package that I have seen and liked. It’s nothing with the construction that I’m seeing, just that the pattern itself isn’t a well-done pattern, and on the designer’s own site, she has a section on how to make the plus-size patterns actually it plus-sizes. I can understand needing to tweak a pattern, but there’s a problem when you can expect to routinely make significant changes.

    I’m a professional who had to use this pattern by client request, and don’t like it. The problem is the bustline. I don’t care what the designer says, it’s just not going to work for everyone, and so many people end up with weird-looking busts. This is a style that works for you, your fabric choices are beautiful, and that sash sets it off. I’ve got a larger girl who will be wearing this on stage this week, and agree that a sash at the waist is needed.

    Reply
    • Wow, thank you!

      I agree that there’s something not-quite-right about this pattern. I bought it for the pleated shelf bust, but agree that it needed more than tweaking, which just shouldn’t be. It’s definitely not something I’ll make again.

      Reply

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