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The Jacket – Simplicity 1784

I’ve finally finished the jacket (on Monday! Two days ahead of schedule!), which is the “key” and 3rd item of my mini wardrobe. I got to a point this past weekend where I only needed to pop on the sleeves and I would be done…and then I tried the sleeveless jacket on and things headed downhill from there. (RAWR!)

First things first, though – gotta have some completed jacket porn:

Simplicity 1784

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Ugh…too roomy of an armscye.  Need to bring that shit up and in!

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And this is what happened right after I finished the jacket. We’ll just say that sometimes when I get excited, I flail.

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There once were six, now only two remain.

And now on to my driveling. My main problem? The bust. The darts sit a bit funny and I just could not get them to lay flat at the tips, thus the ever so lovely quadruple nipple. While I usually find curved darts and asset, the ones on this jacket were just TOO curved once I did my FBA, and they pulled funnily because the edge of the dart was much shorter than the dart itself.

Once I sewed the pockets on, it became very apparent with the jacket on, so I decided to cut into the dart to help alleviate this issue. It might not be pretty, but it fixed the problem.

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It ended up a little roomy, which is not so flattering when you have a large bust (on the other hand, this jacket is SO comfy). And even though the pattern sizing indicates that I should cut a 16 for my ~30″ waist, I had SO MUCH room in the waist on the size 12, and ended up taking off an INCH on each side seam (total of 2″), which then lead to more random clipping of curves (srsly Simplicity?!). I was dumb and had already sewn on the bias binding to the side seams before checking the fit and I ended up having to trim and re-bind those seams (right before all of this happened, I thought I would be finished shortly). What.A.Pain. So frustrating.

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You can see the original stitching line, and the bias I had to rip and resew.

These things, compiled with the stretch of the fabric, makes me think I should’ve started with a 10 instead (I can’t remember the last time I wore a pattern size 10…I think I was probably 16 years old).

This all having been said, this stretch sateen bottom weight fabric from JoAnn wasn’t quite the right fabric for this project. The stretch aspect works fine, but I needed a firmer suiting fabric, which would also be more wrinkle-proof, especially since this thing isn’t lined.

Simplicity 1784
Wrinkly back - another reminder of the importance of proper fabric choice!

Man, I love complaining.

And for the more positive aspects of this project.

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I love the shawl collar – it turned out beautifully.

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I also really like how sharp the inside looks with all of the binding.

Obviously, this jacket would be much more polished and would probably wear better over time with a full lining. I’m sure it wouldn’t be tough to figure out how to do that with a good book on tailoring.

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The puffed sleeves are pretty cute.

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And the flappy patch pockets are pretty neat, too.

I thought about doing a bound buttonhole, but went with a machine one instead. The pattern called for the buttonhole to be exactly in this position shown, but unfortunately it’s just not close enough to the edge and the jacket kind of pulls open. Sigh. I’ll probably try a bigger button, and if that doesn’t fix it, maybe a hook and eye? Can’t exactly close up that buttonhole again…

My conclusion? Cut a size smaller than you think you need on this puppy, but definitely still make a muslin. It’s a good jacket, and would be great to cut your jacket makin’ teeth on since construction was pretty smooth, but it needs some extra attention in the fit department. Of course, I’ll also concede that I’ve made jackets before, but I have never made one that fit me like a glove – so take what I say with a grain of salt.

In a nutshell: along the way I thought I wasn’t going to like the end product, but I’ve ended up fairly pleased. :)

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Up next? Ze Thurlow Trousers! I’ve heard so many things about how well these fit, and I had a wonderful experience sewing up Sewaholic’s Cambie, so I have high hopes for these pants.

As for my schedule, I seem to be right on it! Got my jacket done two days ahead of my September 19th goal (AKA today) and I’m ready to steam ahead with my last two pieces:

Trousers by 9/26
Skirt by 9/29

About sometimessewist

Howdy! I’m Jess, a 30-something midwesterner who loves ice cream, Martinis, and makin’ things. When I’m not sewing, knitting, or learning some new craft, I’m reading, spending time with the boy, or plotting my next project.

13 responses »

  1. Pingback: Mini Wardrobe Plan « the Sometimes Sewist

  2. That is one sharp-looking jacket, missy!! I am drooling over the bias binding and your perfectly straight topstitching on the pockets. So neat and pretty! The fit is so good that I don’t think anyone would ever notice the details you mentioned. What a perfect “key” piece for a wardrobe challenge, especially at this time of year. I bet you will get a lot of wear out of it over the next few months. Looking forward to seeing the progress on the pants – you are a braver soul than I!

    Reply
  3. Wonderful detail work! The collar, pockets, binding…and “fixes”, It all came out fine in the end!

    Reply
  4. Looks great! I love the binding on the inside and i wouldn’t have noticed the armholes being a little big if you hadn’t pointed it out!

    Reply
  5. This fits you so nicely and your detail work is top notch!

    Reply
  6. Pingback: Textile Tuesday – September 2012 « the Sometimes Sewist

  7. I think you did a wonderful job, the finishing is great and the jacket does look good on you!

    Reply
  8. Pingback: Mini Wardrobe Completed! « the Sometimes Sewist

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